Introduction
One of my goals when I went to Japan in 2006 was to walk the Shikoku no Michi pilgrimage, a 1200 km. circular route connecting 88 Buddhist temples, founded by Kukai around 800 AD and walked by thousands of pilgrims in the many years since. Kukai, also called Kobo Daishi, was an extraordinary man; not only did he bring Buddhism to Japan from China, but he also created Hiragana, one of the three Japanese writing systems (Kanji and Katakana are the other two). He grew up in northeastern Shikoku, a local boy, and was also renowned as a civic engineer, building reservoirs for the farmers, at least one of which is still used today.
I was in Imabari for four years, but debt obligations meant I wasn’t able to save enough money to walk the circuit. It takes about six and a half weeks, and would cost me at least $3300 to complete it. A related problem was that I felt that I would probably not have enough time to do this and visit my family in Canada before taking a new teaching job.
Around March, a gentle suggestion from one of my friends led me to realize I might be able to cycle the route, cutting my costs roughly in half, and the time required to perhaps 20 days. I would miss out on walking some of the ancient trails, (not accessible even to mountain bikes) but at least would be able to complete the circuit, and keep my promise to myself. So I decided to bike the pilgrimage.
I chose to start from Imabari, though the norm is to begin from Tokushima at Temple 1. Tradition has it, however, that it is perfectly acceptable to start from any point on the circuit, though an extra trip to Temple 1 is required to obtain the final calligraphy in the record book, called a Nokyocho, that most pilgrims carry. I chose to start and finish at temple 54, En Meiji, in Imabari.
There is a certain amount of costuming and gear required for the traditional henro, most of it available in nearby Matsuyama. However, my friend Chihiro’s mum had given me a vest and sash, emblazoned with the Kobo Daishi’s name, and this, along with a simple wooden staff, and a Nokyocho along with some ofuda, or paper slips to be dropped in the altar boxes, was all the gear I took. I wanted one of the really cool straw hats, but opted for my helmet instead!
I did pack a small tent and insulated sleeping pad, though I only used them once (!!). Foolishly, I chose to take my macbook along in a plastic box. A bad idea! It was much too heavy. Because I didn’t have proper touring panniers, I carried about 7 kg. on the back of my bike, and about 5-7 kg. on my back in a small backpack. This did not seem so heavy, but eventually came to make my neck and shoulder ache every day. Next time I go on a tour like this I will use proper panniers. I promise. No backpack.
I used a small mapbook, only recently published, in English, reviewed here. I got my copy for about 1600 Y ($16.00) at the henro shop right near the entrance to the gintengai in Matsuyama, near bus loop. My friend Akiko also gave me a large single sheet map of the circuit, very recently available. Yay! No longer do Japanese challenged henro have to puzzle through a maze of Kanji to figure out their route!
Anyway, after finishing work on the 31st of June, I spent 4 days cleaning my apartment. I was supposed to leave it (I was no longer paying rent, after all) but my landlords, who lived above me, were very kind and said that I could keep my luggage there while I was gone.
A bigger problem was LBK, a cat that I had adopted a year before and which I could not find a home for.
At my GEOS going away lunch, however, I talked Hiroki, a teacher at my school, into feeding her while I was away, decided to let the chips fall where they might, and fix whatever needed fixing when I returned.
